Former Astronaut Mark E. Kelly, a gun-control proponent and husband to former Congresswoman Gabby Giffords, recently purchased an AR-15 (an “assault weapon,” he called it)—which he now says he intended as an illustration of the need for more stringent gun laws.
Kelly reportedly bought the AR-15 and a 1911-style semi-automatic pistol at a gun store in Tucson, Arizona.
Breitbart News received a tip on this when Neil McCabe, editor of Guns & Patriots newsletter, contacted us on March 7 and said:
Mark E. Kelly, made purchases which included an AR-15–sometimes described as an “assault rifle”–at 3:30 pm on the afternoon of March 5 at Diamondback Police Supply, 170 S. Kolb Street, Tucson, AZ.
According to McCabe, witnesses to the purchases claimed Kelly purchased “high capacity” magazines as well.
On March 6, McCabe contacted Kelly’s gun control group–”Americans for Responsible Solutions”–and on March 8 they replied that his message had been passed on to colleagues who handle press requests. Breitbart News then began investigating the details surrounding the purchase, including visiting the gun store.
Suddenly, Kelly announced on his Facebook page that he was not going to keep the AR-15, which he has yet to pick up from the store.
Days after making the purchases,
Kelly wrote on Facebook:I just had a background check a few days ago when I went to my local gun store to buy a .45. As I was leaving, I noticed a used AR-15. Bought that too. Even to buy an assault weapon, the background check only takes a matter of minutes. I don’t have possession of it yet but I’ll be turning it over to the Tucson PD when I do.
Testifying to the Senate Judiciary Committee Jan. 30, Kelly had urged senators to restrict sales firearms based on their lethality–a common refrain with other witnesses that day, who argued that semi-automatic weapons, which chamber subsequent rounds as bullets are fired, and other guns with military-style features level the playing field against law enforcement.
Kelly and Giffords founded their own advocacy group to restrict gun rights, Americans for Responsible Solutions, in January. On its website, ARS wrote: “High capacity magazines are a deadly factor in gun violence.” A 30-round magazine is considered a high-capacity magazine.
The ARS website says: “Congress should act to limit the sale of high capacity magazines, which are not needed for hunting or self-defense, but have proven very lethal.”
Similarly, the ARS website says: “Congress should act to limit the sale of assault weapons.
In February, Kelly told Fox News Sunday’s Chris Wallace that lawmakers need to address “assault weapons.” He said the purpose of an “assault weapon” is “to kill a lot of people very quickly,” and he lamented that such products were “too readily available.”
Kelly has not commented on whether he will also return the .45 caliber semi-automatic pistol he purchased.
Photo: Captain Mark Kelly/Facebook
The muzzle device is one of the easiest but yet most important upgrades that can be done to a rifle in this case an AR. The standard A2 type is listed by the military as a compensator but is actually a flash hider. There are more types of muzzle devices available than can be listed here but they can do any thing from completely get rid of muzzle flash, act as a rebar cutter (yes those exist), get rid of muzzle climb (used in competitions VERY loud), and others that are flash hiders or compensators and also act as a mounting point for a suppressor. Depending on what you use your AR for will help determine which muzzle device you chose. Like all things with a modern sporting rifle there are so many to choose from you can spend as much or as little as you want. The good thing is the muzzle device is one of the easiest things to change and can greatly change the performance of your weapon.
Tools Needed:
AR buttstock/flash hider tool which you should have if you own an AR series rifle. Or a military style AR wrench which will let you add/remove barrel and remove the flash hider
a 1/2 breaker bar, 1/2 torque wrench that can have 25-30ft lbs - 3/4″ wrench can be used
CLP cleaner
Peal washers are handy to have just in case the supplied crush washer is not big enough
It is also easier with a work bench and vise with vise block. If you are a serious AR user you should have these; if you do not never fear just get someone to hold the rifle for you.
Military style AR tool with breaker bar / Tapco butt stock/muzzle device
Follow the manufacturers directions for installation.before starting this removal and installation process.
Remove any existing muzzle attachment and clean the threads of your barrel.
Install the supplied crush washer making certain the small-protruded portion of the washer is contacting the flange surface of your barrel.
Hand-tighten your new muzzle accessory in place.
Using a 3/4 wrench, tighten the accessory at least 1/4 turn and continue to tighten until the middle exhaust port is on top dead center with your sight line.
Military requires that the device be tightened to 25-35ft lbs.
Range testing of the Vortex Crossfire 2.4-12×44 with Dead Hold BDC
Zero: 50 yards
Firing range: 200 yards
Targets: Clay Pigeons
Round: 55 grain Wolf Precision Ammunition
Conditions: Temperature mid 50s, no wind to speak of, sunny, the perfect shooting day.
200 Yards: Scope and rifle shot exactly to the range card provided by Vortex LRBC app on their website .5” high at 200 yards. While not firing for groups at 200 yards once hold over was found first shot hits were easy and boringly consistent for three different shooters.
15 Yards: Moved power to 4 and range some close ran drills. Again rifle and scope shot exactly to the range card 2.5” low at that range. While the rifle is used as a hunting rifle at 4 power the rifle performed well at rapid fire drills. Engaging targets with both eyes open and achieving A zone hits (remember to account for close distance) was not a difficult task even with a 9lb rifle not a trim carbine.
While it may seem counter-intuitive the .223/5.56 round according to several ballistics charts the 50 or 200 yard zero work best. For example the above mentioned 55 grain round will shoot to within 3” from muzzle to 300 meters while a 100 yard zero is -12” at 300 yards. Several AR experts such as Paul Howe, Travis Hailey, and Kyle Lamb agree.
While it may seem odd to have such a large variable power scope on an AR platform I use it to deer and coyote hunt and it performs very well. Vortex also has a drop card generator on their website that works very well. With any variable optic is important to know your range card, taping it to the inside of the butt stock is a good idea. The Crossfire II is a very good mid-range priced optic backed by a 100% no questions asked warranty.
The LAR-8 is a reasonably priced, reasonably light AR platform 7.62×51 rifle. Another selling point is that it is “supposed” to be able to use any FN type magazine metal, polymer, inch or metric. Since FN magazines are in good supply they are also pretty inexpensive yet another selling point. From personal experience these rifles are built to very tight tolerances and are very accurate and can shoot better than I can. These points would indicate that this would be a very good firearm to have, light, accurate, and shoots a powerful round.
First I have to tell a story to get to the problem.
The above qualities convinced my dad to buy one of these rifles and since I had not heard any bad things about them I also thought was a good idea. His first shooting season after purchasing the weapon went fine through zeroing his optic nothing bad so far. He reloads and we notice that the brass is kicking out funny then the weapon goes down. No immediate action drill will help so we inspect the weapon an there is part of shell casing stuck in the chamber. A shell casing stuck is never a good thing so we get a cleaning rod out and corrected the problem. He reloads next round does the same thing it is ripping the bottom of the cartridge off. So we stop shooting that rifle and the next business day he calls Rock River. They tell him he is probably not keeping his weapon clean and that he needs to get a chamber brush and keep the lugs really clean. I for one have never heard of a chamber getting so dirty after 30 rounds that it will cause rounds to stick so tight the extractor rips the case in half. Also keep in mind that my father is a former Marine and knows a little about weapons maintenance as he had to battle the Jamming Jenny of Vietnam fame. So dad makes sure the weapon is clean before next range season fires approx 10 rounds thru the rifle and it has the same issue. At this point I had to stop him from throwing the rifle against a tree and to have him send to Rock River. The following week he gets a return authorization from Rock River and sent the rifle back. In a couple weeks he gets the weapon back with a note saying the rifle has had 100 rounds through it with no jams and also advising him to call the tech guys. That should have been a warning now to the problem…
The magazine chosen for this rifle while dependable in an FN does not like the AR platform. Per RRA’s tech guys it is advised that the owner should use only polymer magazines and that this particular person when using metal magazines disassembles them and coats the inside with car wax to make sure it works. Meanwhile RRA reject the polymer mags they receive at a rate of 60% because they will not work the tech gun told my dad they reject 6,000 out of every 10,000 magazines received that are made to their specs. The RRA website states “These are inch pattern based RRA LAR-8 magazines no guarantee is made of their compatibility with any rifle other than the RRA LAR-8.” So much for the FN compatibility, the magazine if not absolutely perfect causes the round in the chamber to become stuck and the bolt to rip the base off of the casing. Also on RRA’s website “Due to the progressive improvements to the design of the LAR-8 magwell (they know they have a problem) some magazines may not fall freely from all LAR-8 (if it works at all) and/or may require filing of the spacing tab. Great just what we need to be doing filing away on a magazine to either make it work or ruin it.
Rock River’s solution to my dad’s rifle is that he, send it in again and they will test and replace all of his magazines at no cost. Not fix the lower or magwell but to test and basically get custom magazines for his individual rifle. So as I see it RRA wants the buyers of this rifle to buy enough magazines and test them to find which ones will work. At RRA stated rate of discarding magazines 60% an owner would have to buy 10 to get four that will work that is an extra $200 dollars just to be able to shoot your firearm.
This would be a nightmare for a police force that contemplated this weapon as a Designated Marksman’s rifle, a tough three gun shooter, shooting enthusiast, or hunter wanting something more than a 5.56 in an AR platform to hunt with. This is what happens when someone tries to get fancy and move away from the SR-25 magazine. We know that the PMAGs will work every time and cost the same as RRA polymer magazine.
Rock River makes some very good firearms their LAR-47 is a great idea and has gotten rave reviews. The use of the FN magazine for this weapon was not one of their better ideas and RRA knows they have a problem. I do not think they have it fixed yet and so cannot recall the rifle so they offer stop gap measures to get the shooter by.
So buyer beware the LAR-8 will NOT use any FN magazine and if you decide to purchase one be prepared to shell out another $200 in magazine costs just to get four magazines. Or spend a little extra money and get an LWRC REPR, Colt 901, Armalite, Knights Armament, or if you are stuck on using FN mags get an SA58 from DSArms.
The Costa Leg Rig made its official debut and sold out almost immediately – and understandably so. It’s a great piece of kit made from 1000 Denier coruda and produced by HSGI (High Speed Gear, Inc.). For those of you who have not had the pleasure of utilizing HSGI’s line of kit, it comes highly recommended. Here’s the skinny on the unit:
TACO Pouches can accommodate: AR10/LR308 mag’s, AR mag’s, AK mag’s, Pistol mags,:
Features the Costa Ludus Logo front bottom center.
Note: TACOS are threaded together and cannot be reused in other configurations
Specifications:
1/2“ Webbing Straps with 1” Snap Buckles, Adjustable
I would like to begin by giving the good folks at Vortex Optics a big thank you and it is great to know that a company still stands behind its guarantee. I had a problem with my scope, I called customer service, mailed it in and had a new optic back in less that five business days.
The beauty of the Picatinny rail system is the ease in which you can add all kinds of stuff to a firearm that has the rails on them. If you are mounting a scope that does not have integral mount on it you still have to do a little work to do.
Tools:
If you mount more than one scope a year you will want to invest in a Wheeler scope mounting kit it is a bit pricey especially if you add the 30mm tool but well worth it. It comes with an inch lbs torque driver, fixtures for smoothing out 1″ and 30mm rings, thread locker for your bases if mounting to a non Picatinny rail, and what they call the level,level,level.
Wheeler Engineering scope mounting kit
Also go ahead and buy a gunsmith screwdriver set Wheeler makes a good set as does Weaver, and B Square you can go crazy with these sets with some offering 70+ bits. The bits work better than the supplied allen wrench. If you do not have this kit you will need the allen wrench that comes with the mount, an inch pounds torque wrench with socket adapter and a good selection of sockets, a small level two if you have them.
You need a work space that you can lock your rifle into to ensure that everything is level. There are a ton of gun maintenance vises out there but MTM makes some good affordable products and there are any number of bench vises that will work. If you do any amount of work on ARs and you have a work bench and vise spend the money on armorers blocks. They will pay for themselves many times over especially after your first build.
Mounting the Scope: I mounted a Vortex Crossfire II using a 1″ Primary Arms Deluxe AR one piece scope mount
Step 1: Unload the weapon then check it again to make sure. Lock the rifle into your vise fixture or your rest. Clean your rails and the attachment point(s) on the mount to insure no debris or gunk is on them. Nothing is more frustrating that some little something keeping you from leveling your mount.
Step 2: Smooth out the inside of the scope rings. Follow the instructions provided in your Wheeler kit. This makes sure than any ridges or high spots created in the manufacturing process of the rings get removed. This allow for the entire ring to grip the optic which gives you the rigidity you need for accuracy. If you do not have the de-burring fixtures I personally would not attempt this step. You could removed too much metal and ruin the rings.
Step 3: Attaching the mount, this is where it can get a little time-consuming. Separate your rings and put the screws and tops to the side in a box or other place you will not lose them. Put your scope mount on the rails as far forward as it will go while still being in full contact as you do not want part of your mount hanging off and hand tighten (as you might have to move it), then put the scope in the bottom rings. Next set up your normal cheek weld and starting with scope as far forward as it can go move it towards your eye until you get the full view thru the scope. Remove the scope and now make sure the mount is level with the rifle then lock your mount down to the rails using your torque wrench tighten to the manufacturers specifications. Do not over tighten as you can damage the mount or screws. If your attachment screws are big enough for a socket use one and not the screw driver slot.
Leveling the scope and mount
Step 4: Establishing eye relief, with the mount ready to go put your scope back into the open bottom rings and reestablish your full field of view. Now put the top of the rings down and screw down enough to where you can still move your scope. Now level the scope with the mount. I use the top cap on the scope as that gives a flat surface for the level and put another level on the mount. Now move the scope until it is level. Re-check your eye relief and tighten your ring screws. Again tighten only to the manufactures specifications do not over tighten as you can knarf up your screws. You do NOT need to use thread locker. If you do not have a torque wrench hand tighten until the screws stop do not try to force it. For example the screws that came with my mount are only tightened to 20 inch pounds.
It is a well documented fact that most of the reliability problems with the AR family come from a dirty and dry gun. Sadly what a lot of new AR buyers neglect is cleaning equipment. I want to share my methods and some tools in keeping my rifle running.
First before we disassemble the weapon take out the magazine then cycle the bolt and visually check to make sure the rifle is empty, then check, and check again there is no need for an AD while cleaning your rifle. First assemble you cleaning supplies I keep mine in a tool box. What you will need:
Simply Green Cleaner and de-greaser does a wonder on cleaning weapons and does not stink.
A cleaning kit you can get the basic military style kit (make sure it includes a chamber brush), I also have an Otis Deluxe Military cleaning kit that works for 9MM, .40/.45 ca, 7.62, and 12 gauge weapons but any of their caliber specific kits will work. I also own a M-Pro 7 cleaning kit I use both when cleaning at home but take the Otis shooting. I also have the Otis MSR/AR maintenance Tool Set which if you do not own a cleaning kit from them is also very handy to have. I have joined these kits and use the parts I like best from each. Do some experimenting and find out what works best for YOU. (MUST HAVE)
5.56 / .22 patches (Must have)
DPMS Takedown Pin Punch a very hand tool useful for several different thing when cleaning your AR.
C.A.T. M-4 tool allows the operator to clean the weapon and restore the bolt and carrier group to tactical tolerance in a matter of minutes. This is a really good piece of kit and easy to use. (Nice to have)
CLP / Break Free if you shoot a lot buy this stuff by the gallon. It is not that expensive and works on every type of firearm. Also some form of Copper remover. (Must Have)
Some type of bench matt or towel to put on your table or work bench.
I am lucky enough to have a vice and armorers blocks to lock my rifle into if you do not have this investing in a MTM Sight and Clean or another one of their maintenance rests is a good idea. However I used the kitchen table for years and did just fine. Also if you are out in the field these nice things are not an option.
Shop rags, I am a huge fan of recycling old t-shirts for this purpose they will not hurt the finish of the weapon and you can wash and reuse them.
Can of compressed air (not a needed but nice to have)
12 gauge shotgun cleaning mop. (Nice to have)
The first step is to push the rear take down pin with the left side of the rifle facing you to the right. Use the DPMS Takedown Pin Punch this eliminates having to use a bullet tip, does not mar the finish, and ensures you push the pin all the way thru.
Push the take down pin from left to right and open the weapon on the front hinge.
2. Open the action and pull the charging handle and bolt carrier group out. Then disassemble the BCG I do this by facing the bolt away from me and taking the Take down punch and pushing the firing pin retaining pin from the right to left, this pushes it out far enough that I can finish pulling out with my fingers then pull out or let the firing pin fall free. Next turn the bolt cam pin to where it is running long ways down the bolt and remove. This will allow you to remove the bolt from the carrier. I then place these in an old pie pan and liberally spray with Simply Green. I then set aside and let soak.
Pushing the firing pin, retaining pin outBolt take down complete.
3. Inspect the locking lugs if you notice a lot of Copper fouling follow the directions on your remover. If not spray the upper receiver, locking lug area, lower receiver with Simply Green, getting some down the barrel is a good thing as well.
4. Next we go back to the bolt if you do not have a C.A.T tool get ready for some scrubbing if the bolt is very dirty (it is important that you not use a brush around the gas rings of your bolt, those are the rings towards the rear of the bolt. Follow the directions on the C.A.T. tool to clean the tail of the bolt and the carrier group where the bolt enters. Be sure to get the bolt and Due to the way a direct impingement gas system works you are blowing powder residue back into the receiver so it is important you keep the bolt area as clean as possible. The Simply Green does a great job in cleaning but there still might be some areas you have to scrub hard. Remember the bolt is the heart of your weapon so take care of it.
Using the C.A.T tool
5. Chamber and locking lugs: use your chamber brush and scrub this area very well make sure the chamber and locking lugs are clean. You may need to use the Otis scraper on more stubborn build up especially if you have not cleaned your weapon or have put a bunch of rounds down range.
6. I then use a toothbrush to scrub the inside of the upper receiver and the lower receiver including the magazine well. I also spray out (with compressed air) the trigger area where I cannot reach with my brush.
Simply Green is a de-greaser so you will have to wipe it off and lubricate your weapon . For the chamber and locking lugs I wrap a use a big piece of t-shirt and push my chamber brush to get everything out and dry the area, on the inside of the upper use a 12 gauge cleaning mop this fits perfectly and will let you wipe down the weapon. Also run a couple of patches down the barrel to get any that might have gotten there when spraying the upper. Every other surface I wipe off with shop rags. This makes sure everything is clean and removes the cleaner. Next soak another rag with CLP and wipe everything down really well inside and out and let sit for a few minutes. This will give the CLP time to bond with the metal. I then wipe off the excess. Now put the bolt back together in the reverse order you took it apart. The bolt needs to feel wet to the touch. I also tend to leave the long part of the charging handle where it contacts the upper a little more lubricated as well.
Before putting the rifle together you should always check the function of your bolt. To do this pull the bolt to its full extended position, set bolt face first on a flat service if it does no collapse you are good to go if it does you need new gas rings. For this you will need to call a gunsmith or learn how to replace on your own.
Good gas rings
I did not mention cleaning the barrel. The US Army shooting team only cleans their barrels once a year during their annual armorers cleaning and inspection. The reason for this is a clean bore will change your point of impact. In saying this if you have been out in nasty weather and gotten rain down the barrel clean it. You clean it the same way as the rest of the weapon spray simply green down the barrel and let sit. Put your cleaning rod together and run patches in the direction the bullets go not from the front of the barrel back into the gun. Run patches until they come out clean then lightly lubricate.
I nor Knesek assume any responsibility for any damage or injury caused by user error in the disassembly or assembly of your weapon. This is for informational purposes only if the user has any questions please contact a gunsmith.
We are in full swing now with AR concealed carry courses at our facility in Van Buren – as a result we’ve increased range membership and are preparing to expand our current firing bays as well as add new awnings and concrete walkways to improve the campus. Thank you to all of our dedicated members & customers!
